Waterfalls and leaves

Today is all about beating the weather that’s coming in and finding a walk involving a waterfall. After a couple of false starts we eventually stumble on the Sabbathday Falls off the “Kanc”. It’s only a short walk but the falls are beautiful as promised. Strangely in the rain the leaf colours look more vivid, maybe it’s the grey skies makes them stand out more or that they have this just washed look and are shiny in the rain. The fall is definitely well under way in some areas of the White Mountains with only the pine trees left to give some colour to the landscape; but in other areas the leaves are still firmly glued onto the trees.

By a happy accident we end up driving along a deserted byway on the edge of the White Mountains in Maine, the red and yellow leaves carpet the road, while the rain and wind is causing a confetti like storm of leaves. All the while we’re driving through a cathedral like arch of trees with every colour over head from dark green, through lime green to yellow, gold, scarlet red and purple. The effect is breathtaking.

We arrive in Gorham shellshocked with the beauty of the drive we’ve just done and realise it’s way past lunch. We roll up at an Italian diner cum shop cum bakery. “Priscilla” serves us with the most typical “New Yoik Italian” accent you could wish to hear! A sumptuous meal of Italian meatballs and pasta soon emerges from the kitchen and is thoroughly enjoyed by both of us.

We arrive back at the B&B and meet the rest of the guests staying tonight chatting over a glass of wine, hosted by King Roger (he’s sitting on the throne!). Tonight there are 4 Brits and 2 Aussies, much exchanging of experiences later we stagger upstairs to enjoy a quiet night in with some red wine, beer and cheese purchased at the Italian deli, oh; did I forget to say that the diner was a speciality Italian shop as well?

Leaf peeping and covered bridges!



The Lion and Rose B&B



The Lion & the Rose is a wonderful B&B with warm and genuine hospitality but, it does remind me of the Addams family mansion. Maybe it’s the decor inside, very ornate with themed rooms or the throne in the lounge or the breakfast eaten together at a large table lit by two candelabra. Most definitely the light in our bedroom which switches it’s self on and off is adding to the atmosphere, I expect Thing or Lurch to appear soon.





View from Mount Washington



Today we’ve driven the Kancamangus highway twice (once wasn’t enough!). Dave was fed up with the stopping for photos by mid day, so as the cloud was lifting over the high mountains we decided to drive up Mount Washington’s auto road. After paying the entrance fee, we were given a CD to narrate the history on the way up and down. Now this journey was more Dave’s idea of fun, narrow steep roads, no guardrails, hairpin bends, brilliant sunshine and views and near the top clouds to go through; totally amazing, breathtaking views that stretch for miles and miles. When we get to the top, it’s shrouded in cloud, but as we watch from the observation deck it gradually parts and blows across the valleys. At 6,280 feet above sea level the temperatures cool, the sunshine strong and the 360 degree vista jaw dropingly beautiful. On the way down Dave decides to test the brakes, judging by the smell at the bottom of the descent (8 miles of it) they’re working well!!



After an expensive lunch in an exclusive location (ok, a subway in the local park) we carry on driving to find a covered bridge. I am now a truly happy woman not only have I seen one, I’ve photographed it and walked over it; Dave’s concerned we have to do the same for all the covered bridges in New England!!

Tonight we eat at Bailiwicks in Littleton. It’s got quite an adventurous menu and by 9.30pm when we leave all the lights are out in town, any other restaurants and pubs shut. People must go to bed early here. There’s not even any moose about.







Boston to Whitefield

Today we leave Boston to travel to the White Mountains; the day is gray and wet with worse weather forecast for the Cape Ann area. Reluctantly we decide not visit the coast but to head inland to the White Mountains. We didn’t regret the decision, the skies cleared the nearer to the mountains we got until under blue skies we start to glimpse the fall colours.



White Mountains



As we have plenty of time I persuade Dave to take a detour via the lakes region, I can’t say the names of the lakes never mind spell them but we walked for a while round Meredith admiring the views of the lake and the reflections of the leaf colours in the water. We have lunch sitting by the lakeside enjoying the warm autumn sunshine an unexpected result based on the weather earlier in the day when we left Boston. Further on we pass our first covered bridge, Dave thought an accident has happened as I’m squealing excitedly. The scenery gets better and better with huge vistas of autumn trees opening up on each turn. You would pay a lot of money for this kind of show, fortunately at this time of year Mother Nature provides it for free. The colours are unbelievable and difficult to put into words, but it is every bit as good as we expected and hoped for and then some. There’s a steam railway along the side of the road and a fast running river on the other side. Occasionally we come across waterfalls falling down the mountainside.

We reach the Lion and the Rose B&B in Whitefield where we’re warmly greeted by Chris and Roger. It is a beautiful home, decorated in an extravagant over the top style. Our room is the Far East room; a four poster bed dominates the middle of the room while exotic nic nacs with a far eastern feel and a huge stone fireplace complete the decor. It’s customary here to share a glass of wine with Chris, Roger and the other guests while you decide where to go to eat. Tonight we’re off to The Mountain View Grand Tavern with some of the other guests and a great evening it is, exchanging information about the area and ourselves.

A walking tour around Boston



Acorn Street, Boston



Today the plan is for a short walk around the Beacon Hill area. This proves to be very pretty and quiet taking in the affluent residences of Beacon Hill built in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. There are pumpkins and ears of corn on a lot of door steps presumably to celebrate the fall and Halloween.



After this the urgent need is to find a bar that is showing English football so Dave can watch the Chelsea v Arsenal game. We naturally head for the Italian quarter because they are most likely to have the football on. Sure enough, the caffe del sport is the place to be – at least for 15 Italian men, 1 English man and me! I’ve never seen an espresso last so long, maybe they’re making their house’s untidy. Towards the end of the game, the wives appear, they’ve been shopping and it’s time for the men to take them out for lunch! As for the result of the game, well let’s just say Dave stomped his way through the next part of the walk.



We followed the Greenway all the way to China Town. It’s a beautiful strip of green park land following a major thoroughfare, interspersed with modern interactive are and beautiful gardens. As this ends we decide to walk to the Prudential Building to go to the observation deck, quite a walk it turns out. Dave’s not happy that it includes passing through a very expensive shopping arcade (Jan’s naturally delighted). On reaching the entrance to the skyway, we find it’s closed; so much for up to date information in the guide book.





The way back to beacon street is through the streets of the Back Bay area past the Bull & Finch Pub, the location for the filming of the 80’s TV series Cheers. Aftera long rest we decude only a steak will do, so after some research we decide on Ruth's Chris steakhouse and an exellent choice it is, an atmospheric setting, good service and a superb steak.





So our stay in Boston is nearly over on to the white mountains, hopefully we'll still have acess to the blog if not see you in Westport... 





Sunset over Boston



Boston's Freedom Trail

Hurray, no rain only blue skies and sunshine. We set off early to explore Boston, starting with the Freedom Trail. The start of the trail is a stone’s throw from the apartment; we join a large group of people milling around the starting point thinking a tour is about to start. We soon realise we’re in the wrong line as this is also the site of Boston’s soup kitchen! Not a good start!! However, the park is beautiful with the trees beginning to turn yellow, people walking their dogs and squirrels darting everywhere.



North End Church



The trail takes us past the many sites and houses that mark the start of the American Revolution from the State House with its magnificent 23 carat gold dome, to The Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere’s House, the USS Constitution and finally Bunker Hill. Dave seems intent on marching the red line, I however, wanted to read the history behind it (in far too much detail for Dave!) just like the American couple we pass, as she said “don’t you want the history lesson here?” Obviously not today, we reach a compromise Dave does the David Bailey picture thing and I read the information giving him the potted version http://www.boston.world-guides.com/freedom_trail.html The guide at North End Church explains one mystery that has puzzled us since we started researching where to go and places to eat in America and New York in particular; a restaurant called “One if by land and Two if by sea”. It refers to the number of lanterns hung in the bell tower of the church to warn the patriots that the British forces are moving to attack Concord. The events of the American Revolution then start with the ride of Paul Revere to warn the patriots, this is immortalised in the poem by Longfellow.

We stumble on an American car show, I have never seen such well polished cars  both outside, inside and under the bonnet. Surely these engines have been washed and polished in the kitchen they're that shiny!!



After all that walking we needed lunch, clam chowder to be precise courtesy of one of the many Irish bars – delicious. And after that, more walking wandering, through the streets of Boston, a fascinating mix of old and modern architecture. A street performance provided a rest from walking and entertainment while a modern water fountain gave interactive entertainment for some children (and a few adults)



View from the roof deck



We returned to the apartment and took a beer to the roof deck to watch the sunset over Boston’s skyline, magic. We wander off for dinner and find an authentic Italian and get the only table left. We can’t believe the queues to buy pastries and cakes at the Italian Pastry shops out the door and along the street, they must be really good.





New York to Boston



Little green car next to our huge SUV



It’s raining; heavily....the trip to pick up the hire car is awash with spray. We collect a very funky pale green car, almost escape the control gate only for the attendant to say “Oh Oh it’s a turn back, this car has a recall on it.” Seeing Dave’s face she realises that she needs to sort something out quick, in true US style she says turn around and pick any car in the compound. So the Green funky machine is replaced by a serious Silver Hyundai Sante Fe. This will probably cost twice as much on petrol but Dave’s well pleased and with minimum of fuss all paperwork is revised and we are finally on our way. It still raining and we make only two blocks before we hit traffic.



The drive down through Long Island was slow, abandoned cars littering the sides of the road, school buses and yellow taxis crawling along with us. The Americans certainly haven’t embraced the small car culture....There again nor have we now! At first there is very little sign of the leaves turning to yellow never mind red but gradually the hues change. I feel at this point I must mention the third person on the trip, Gertie the Sat Nav; so far she’s been spot on a good travelling companion. The further we get from New York, the more rural it becomes, stalls offering pumpkins and signs for pick your own (what do you do with a boot full of pumpkins?). At the very tip of the north fork of Long Island is Orient Point, the sign helpfully says road ends in 500yards!



Jan on her cruise!



The Cross Sound Ferry is definitely a working ship not a cruise ship as Dave’s trying to sell it as. Plastic seats, a neon sign covered bar and cafe selling sandwiches and pretzels with the TV blaring over it all. An hour and a half later we enter Connecticut; the typical mid American sound of a train passing greets us. The trip up to Boston is wet but the trees are definitely beginning to wear their autumn coat.

Finally, the outskirts of Boston and Friday night traffic, awful. We crawl our way into the centre of Boston, at this point the reliable Gertie has obviously had enough and proceeds to contradict herself every second direction but Dave’s brilliant city navigation skills come to the fore, as she’s female he ignores her (wise move) and we arrive outside 21 Beacon Street.



We are greeted by the Apartment owners Peter and Jane who go over all of the essential info. The apartment is beautiful, great views over Boston Common and the State House, especially dramatic at night with the lights of the skyscrapers in the background. We are going to the Beehive tonight and after setting off in the wrong direction (I’m blaming the Jet Lag) a friendly cabbie puts us right and we reach the Beehive. A great venue with a great table on the gallery, overlooking the pretty female jazz singer on-stage. The meal is excellent, Porogies (still don’t know what they are but they taste good!), slow roasted beef and scallops. After such a full 24 hours, jet lag catches up, unable to stay awake to see the Blues band Dave opts to take me home before he has to carry me...It’s still raining so we opt for a taxi back to Beacon Street and bed. Hopefully tomorrow the weather will be good as predicted by the TV weatherman and we can start our exploration of Boston.



Kettering to New York

Finally, our adventure starts with a beautiful bright and sunny day in Kettering. The air has a real autumnal feel to it, lets hope we have more of this in the States.

We rarely travel by train so starting with a train to London seems a great way to start, and British Rail co-operated no delays, seats available even for 2 large suitcases. The most difficult part of the whole journey was walking down to the underground and getting on the correct tube, all we can say is go with the info on the front of the tube. You think when you set out in your little bubble of excitement that you're the only ones going away but, as you sit on the tube to Heathrow gradually the commuters become less and the travellers with cases become more. Towards the end of the line its only the holiday makers and airport terminal staff left.

Heathrow Terminal 5, wow, clean spacious and efficient, security friendly but very thorough. And then there's the shops and restaurants behind. Thinking to distract me from all that glitters, Dave steered a firm path to Gordon Ramsey's restaurant knowing all to well that a well cooked and presented meal would work a treat. And what a treat, superb smoked salmon, beetroot & goats cheese salad followed by sea bass, heaven!!!

It was all going a tad too well so British Airways provided the hiccup with a 2 hour delay for a faulty engine.To their credit they found another plane, moved all the luggage to it (we were all about to get on when the fault occurred, thank goodness not in mid Atlantic) and gave us vouchers for a drink before taking off two and a half hours late. The flight however was perfect, great seats together, quiet (no children) and good movies to watch.

At Last 3am British time we landed at JFK. I'm glad I first came in at night, so impressive with all the lights, streams of red tail lights and white headlights, islands of intense light from hotel and advertising hoardings, amazing.

The hotel shuttle to Days Inn, very efficient, hotel well not quite so amazing but comfortable none the less. And so to sleep only to wake very early, am on UK or US time I'm not sure, I only know its 6am here and raining hard, the news says heavy thundery rain overnight has caused chaos and flooding! We'll soon find out when we pick up the car and move on to Boston.