Irish Roads

Our last day in Ireland and after another Irish breakfast we start the journey to Rosslare to catch our ferry. The drive starts out well with beautiful countryside and rolling hills but after a couple of hours the novelty wears off especially as the roads my sat nav sends us down get increasingly narrow until we’re on a single track road. It seems to be grass cutting and silage making day throughout the whole of Ireland and we meet every tractor and grass cutter at work. Dave is getting increasingly grumpy and I’m getting anxious that we might not make the ferry. A much-needed stop in Kilkenny for a coffee and a walk to stretch our legs restores our good humour. The roads are now at least single track each way, through sleepy villages, alongside rivers and all the time vast stretches of rolling green countryside. A final stop in Wexford before we reach the ferry port to waste some time but the town itself is not inspiring. Then it’s on to the port where of course we’re picked to be searched, not surprisingly he doesn’t want to open the dirty washing bag and waves us through.

The ferry crossing is thankfully smooth and soon we’re driving off the ferry at Fishguard. After such a long day of driving, we’re stopping for the night at The Wolfe Inn, Wolfs Castle. We reach the pub just before closing time and are soon in our room which to be honest is far better than we hoped for. It’s a lovely traditional stone built pub, the room is huge and has both an entrance from the pub itself and a quaint set of stone steps out into the pub garden. A very good place to rest tonight before our final drive home tomorrow.

Galway Bay

With only one full day in Galway we’re out walking early today heading for the cathedral. Our route takes us over the aptly named Salmon Weir Bridge where anglers are already fly fishing in the River Corrib. The cathedral was started in 1958 and completed in 1965 and is the youngest cathedral in Europe. It’s of traditional design built it grey stone with beautiful stained-glass windows and a domed roof over the central transept. There’s also lots of mosaic art in the side chapels and a lovely altar area at the centre of the building which looks like services can be taken “in the round”. We walk on past Spanish Arch, Galway Harbour and onto the path along the edge of Galway Bay. Lots of people are out running, walking exercising their dogs along the pathway which takes in the beauty of Galway Bay with its hints of mist shrouded lands on the horizon.

After a couple of miles and several “are we there yet’s?” the finishing post of our walk comes into sight, Wilde’s, a trendy café cum restaurant and a very welcome sight. We sink into the chairs and manage to order seafood chowder and Irish soda bread for lunch and yes, it is mouth-wateringly good. A local bus back into Galway gives us another view of the Salthill area, lots of B&B’s, colourful window boxes and baskets.

Galway city is quite small and it’s easy to wander around it, taking in the sights such as Lynch Castle, a fortified house, Browne Gate and Eyre Square by day and all the time there’s a background hum of Irish music. Our evening starts with a meal at McSwiggan’s on the recommendation of our taxi driver and he obviously knows a good restaurant. The steak is melting and the rioja excellent, as is the sharing chocolate and nut brownie. We continue onto his next suggestion Tig Coili to hear some more traditional Irish music and as they are set up by the window we opt to sit outside in the cool. On the opposite side of the street a 3-piece band has set up playing among other songs “Purple Rain”, it’s quite a contrast of musical genres.

Galway & Diddlee Dee

The drive to Galway is breath takingly beautiful, green countryside, rough rock-strewn hills and unbelievably blue stretches of water. No picture can fully capture this magnificence. The roads are nearly empty, probably because it’s bank holiday and of course there’s that famous attraction of pig racing taking place.

When we reach Galway, we realise why the roads are so quiet, everyone’s here driving to the shops or town. The Nox is fortunately easily reached and an oasis of calm and modern comfort, quite different to the basic apartment we’ve just left and only a 15-minute walk from the centre of Galway. The town is a mix of narrow streets, small shops and restaurants and modern chain stores. There’s a cacophony of street buskers, seagulls and voices in the air. The deceptively large il Follette has just one table left outside and it’s ours. A bottle of Abruzzo with mussels then Hake for me and Meatballs then spicy chicken pasta for Dave, sets us up for the evening. There’s a constant stream of people past our table, the united nations on the march including 6 priests. A walk down to the sea loch to watch the students chatting in groups and couples by the water before strolling up to Eyre Square for a drink and strangely on the table behind us are 6 priests! It’s time to find a traditional Irish pub and some music and the diddlee dee tunes from Taaffes Bar just keep calling us in and keep our feet tapping in time.

Roaring for Rory

So, it’s the last day at the Rory Gallagher Festival in Ballyshannon so we need to get in early to make the most of it, but we’ve got the bus times wrong again or they’re running on Irish times! Anyway, taxi sorted with another group of festival goers and it’s up to “The Gables” to watch Pat McManus play on the back of an artic at the edge of the main street into town. The day is gloriously hot, everyone is dancing, drinking and enjoying the music. There are young families there with children in pushchairs, old blokes and women sat on chairs in the middle of the road, hippies obviously stoned but very happy all clapping in time to the music and all the time the cars weave their way down the street.

Very hot and thirsty it’s time to cool down in Owen Roe’s Bar and as one local says “take a load off me brains” but out side there’s a band starting up, all local musicians who only get together for this festival, “In your Town”  They only play covers of songs and one obligatory Rory tune, but they are brilliant and soon have the crowd singing along and jumping. Time for a break back in Bundoran and a Sunday roast in McGarrigles opposite our apartment followed by a wee snooze before the evening’s entertainment. We reach the big top in time to hear Wilko Johnson followed by the excellent Band of Friends who have everyone jumping, singing and clapping in time to their set. I’m exhausted, the old feet are suffering from all this punishment but there’s one band left, Brian Downey’s Alive & Dangerous, and they don’t start till 12.30am, that’s Monday morning by my reckoning!!! Hope the bus stops and turfs me off in Bundoran…

Ballyshannon

A lazy morning at last here in Bundoran, coffee watching the Irish version of Saturday Kitchen followed by a walk around the coast along the edge of the golf course. Even though there is some mist the views are amazing with distant bays just teasing us with glimpses of their presence. The beach with its wide expanses of golden sands stretches into the distance and on the ocean are four paddle boarders working their way across the bay. After a walk there’s nothing like a relaxing coffee stop at a surfer’s café that is until Dave gets a message to say local Kettering boy Aiden Pryor is now going to play his open-air gig at the top of the town in 30 minutes. The coffee is hastily swallowed and miraculously a shuttle bus appears to take us into Ballyshannon, this is definitely Irish timing as the next bus isn’t due for another hour. We race to the top of the town just in time to hear Aiden starting to play and he’s getting better and better every time we see him. Sitting on the green in the warm sunshine helps the atmosphere of course.

The rest of the afternoon is spent chatting in Dicey O’Reilley’s with Paul and Nina before the evening entertainment in the big top, just time to go home for change of clothes for the cooler evening and cagoules for the rain showers. The entertainment starts with Seamie O’Dowd and is warming up nicely. Then the Eric Steckel Band follow, even with earplugs this is too loud, and his gurning expressions put us both off, time for a sample of the evening atmosphere in one of the town’s many pubs. The Fin McCool is as Irish as they come and tiny, but it’s packed, well there’s 12 people in there. There’s an 8-piece band jamming outside the door and music going on inside. Every few minutes the barmaid does a manic shuffling dance with a towel under her foot to dry the floor. The place oozes charm and conviviality. The next band in the big top is the Walter Trout Band and its great to hear him playing back to his best, driving the music through to a fantastic climax with Bob Landgraff on harmonica, Andrew Elt on vocals and Eric Steckel on guitar minus his gurning! Nothing can top that tonight time for the last bus to Bundoran. A final drink in the Atlantic Bar results in a lock in, we could still have been there if someone hadn’t shown us the secret exit!

On to Bundoran

We say a sad farewell to Patrick and Marie and head south to Bundoran, passing yet more glorious countryside. We find our apartment in Bundoran and quickly settle in, buying supplies in the local supermarket which seems to sell absolutely everything even home cooked ready meals which they plate up for you. Then it’s off to find the bus to Ballyshannon for the Rory Gallager Festival. We wait at the appointed stop with another young couple and soon conclude the bus is running on Irish time and has already gone! A taxi with our new friends soon takes us into Ballyshannon and the driver points out all the local points of interest, good restaurants, taxi stands and an outside washing machine and dryer laundromat!

The town is buzzing and humming with music, people sightseeing, catching up with friends from last year and lots of Guinness. We start in Owen Roe’s bar where we meet up with our friends Paul and Nina. They are regular visitors to the festival and take us on a guided tour of the best bars in Balyshannon walking through the town, pausing for Dave to be photographed with Rory’s statue and ending up at Dicey Reilly’s bar. All the way there is music in every pub, street corner or just set up on the street. Time to eat and have a sit down before going in to the big top so we head back to the taxi drivers top tip, The Limit. For a place so highly recommended it’s nearly deserted but by the time we’ve ordered a drink it’s full! The specials of stuffed chicken and chicken curry are very good.

It’s time for the main event, music in the big top, The Scratch, Laundromat and Pat McManus. All excellent bands playing under a red and blue striped big top which strangely reminds me of Billy Smart’s Circus! The last band Wishbone Ash are starting at 12 midnight I’m flagging by then so as Pat McManus sings Last bus to Bundoran we head back to join the queue for the bus and sleepily arrive back at our apartment.