Irish Roads

Our last day in Ireland and after another Irish breakfast we start the journey to Rosslare to catch our ferry. The drive starts out well with beautiful countryside and rolling hills but after a couple of hours the novelty wears off especially as the roads my sat nav sends us down get increasingly narrow until we’re on a single track road. It seems to be grass cutting and silage making day throughout the whole of Ireland and we meet every tractor and grass cutter at work. Dave is getting increasingly grumpy and I’m getting anxious that we might not make the ferry. A much-needed stop in Kilkenny for a coffee and a walk to stretch our legs restores our good humour. The roads are now at least single track each way, through sleepy villages, alongside rivers and all the time vast stretches of rolling green countryside. A final stop in Wexford before we reach the ferry port to waste some time but the town itself is not inspiring. Then it’s on to the port where of course we’re picked to be searched, not surprisingly he doesn’t want to open the dirty washing bag and waves us through.

The ferry crossing is thankfully smooth and soon we’re driving off the ferry at Fishguard. After such a long day of driving, we’re stopping for the night at The Wolfe Inn, Wolfs Castle. We reach the pub just before closing time and are soon in our room which to be honest is far better than we hoped for. It’s a lovely traditional stone built pub, the room is huge and has both an entrance from the pub itself and a quaint set of stone steps out into the pub garden. A very good place to rest tonight before our final drive home tomorrow.

Galway Bay

With only one full day in Galway we’re out walking early today heading for the cathedral. Our route takes us over the aptly named Salmon Weir Bridge where anglers are already fly fishing in the River Corrib. The cathedral was started in 1958 and completed in 1965 and is the youngest cathedral in Europe. It’s of traditional design built it grey stone with beautiful stained-glass windows and a domed roof over the central transept. There’s also lots of mosaic art in the side chapels and a lovely altar area at the centre of the building which looks like services can be taken “in the round”. We walk on past Spanish Arch, Galway Harbour and onto the path along the edge of Galway Bay. Lots of people are out running, walking exercising their dogs along the pathway which takes in the beauty of Galway Bay with its hints of mist shrouded lands on the horizon.

After a couple of miles and several “are we there yet’s?” the finishing post of our walk comes into sight, Wilde’s, a trendy café cum restaurant and a very welcome sight. We sink into the chairs and manage to order seafood chowder and Irish soda bread for lunch and yes, it is mouth-wateringly good. A local bus back into Galway gives us another view of the Salthill area, lots of B&B’s, colourful window boxes and baskets.

Galway city is quite small and it’s easy to wander around it, taking in the sights such as Lynch Castle, a fortified house, Browne Gate and Eyre Square by day and all the time there’s a background hum of Irish music. Our evening starts with a meal at McSwiggan’s on the recommendation of our taxi driver and he obviously knows a good restaurant. The steak is melting and the rioja excellent, as is the sharing chocolate and nut brownie. We continue onto his next suggestion Tig Coili to hear some more traditional Irish music and as they are set up by the window we opt to sit outside in the cool. On the opposite side of the street a 3-piece band has set up playing among other songs “Purple Rain”, it’s quite a contrast of musical genres.

Galway & Diddlee Dee

The drive to Galway is breath takingly beautiful, green countryside, rough rock-strewn hills and unbelievably blue stretches of water. No picture can fully capture this magnificence. The roads are nearly empty, probably because it’s bank holiday and of course there’s that famous attraction of pig racing taking place.

When we reach Galway, we realise why the roads are so quiet, everyone’s here driving to the shops or town. The Nox is fortunately easily reached and an oasis of calm and modern comfort, quite different to the basic apartment we’ve just left and only a 15-minute walk from the centre of Galway. The town is a mix of narrow streets, small shops and restaurants and modern chain stores. There’s a cacophony of street buskers, seagulls and voices in the air. The deceptively large il Follette has just one table left outside and it’s ours. A bottle of Abruzzo with mussels then Hake for me and Meatballs then spicy chicken pasta for Dave, sets us up for the evening. There’s a constant stream of people past our table, the united nations on the march including 6 priests. A walk down to the sea loch to watch the students chatting in groups and couples by the water before strolling up to Eyre Square for a drink and strangely on the table behind us are 6 priests! It’s time to find a traditional Irish pub and some music and the diddlee dee tunes from Taaffes Bar just keep calling us in and keep our feet tapping in time.

Roaring for Rory

So, it’s the last day at the Rory Gallagher Festival in Ballyshannon so we need to get in early to make the most of it, but we’ve got the bus times wrong again or they’re running on Irish times! Anyway, taxi sorted with another group of festival goers and it’s up to “The Gables” to watch Pat McManus play on the back of an artic at the edge of the main street into town. The day is gloriously hot, everyone is dancing, drinking and enjoying the music. There are young families there with children in pushchairs, old blokes and women sat on chairs in the middle of the road, hippies obviously stoned but very happy all clapping in time to the music and all the time the cars weave their way down the street.

Very hot and thirsty it’s time to cool down in Owen Roe’s Bar and as one local says “take a load off me brains” but out side there’s a band starting up, all local musicians who only get together for this festival, “In your Town”  They only play covers of songs and one obligatory Rory tune, but they are brilliant and soon have the crowd singing along and jumping. Time for a break back in Bundoran and a Sunday roast in McGarrigles opposite our apartment followed by a wee snooze before the evening’s entertainment. We reach the big top in time to hear Wilko Johnson followed by the excellent Band of Friends who have everyone jumping, singing and clapping in time to their set. I’m exhausted, the old feet are suffering from all this punishment but there’s one band left, Brian Downey’s Alive & Dangerous, and they don’t start till 12.30am, that’s Monday morning by my reckoning!!! Hope the bus stops and turfs me off in Bundoran…

Ballyshannon

A lazy morning at last here in Bundoran, coffee watching the Irish version of Saturday Kitchen followed by a walk around the coast along the edge of the golf course. Even though there is some mist the views are amazing with distant bays just teasing us with glimpses of their presence. The beach with its wide expanses of golden sands stretches into the distance and on the ocean are four paddle boarders working their way across the bay. After a walk there’s nothing like a relaxing coffee stop at a surfer’s café that is until Dave gets a message to say local Kettering boy Aiden Pryor is now going to play his open-air gig at the top of the town in 30 minutes. The coffee is hastily swallowed and miraculously a shuttle bus appears to take us into Ballyshannon, this is definitely Irish timing as the next bus isn’t due for another hour. We race to the top of the town just in time to hear Aiden starting to play and he’s getting better and better every time we see him. Sitting on the green in the warm sunshine helps the atmosphere of course.

The rest of the afternoon is spent chatting in Dicey O’Reilley’s with Paul and Nina before the evening entertainment in the big top, just time to go home for change of clothes for the cooler evening and cagoules for the rain showers. The entertainment starts with Seamie O’Dowd and is warming up nicely. Then the Eric Steckel Band follow, even with earplugs this is too loud, and his gurning expressions put us both off, time for a sample of the evening atmosphere in one of the town’s many pubs. The Fin McCool is as Irish as they come and tiny, but it’s packed, well there’s 12 people in there. There’s an 8-piece band jamming outside the door and music going on inside. Every few minutes the barmaid does a manic shuffling dance with a towel under her foot to dry the floor. The place oozes charm and conviviality. The next band in the big top is the Walter Trout Band and its great to hear him playing back to his best, driving the music through to a fantastic climax with Bob Landgraff on harmonica, Andrew Elt on vocals and Eric Steckel on guitar minus his gurning! Nothing can top that tonight time for the last bus to Bundoran. A final drink in the Atlantic Bar results in a lock in, we could still have been there if someone hadn’t shown us the secret exit!

On to Bundoran

We say a sad farewell to Patrick and Marie and head south to Bundoran, passing yet more glorious countryside. We find our apartment in Bundoran and quickly settle in, buying supplies in the local supermarket which seems to sell absolutely everything even home cooked ready meals which they plate up for you. Then it’s off to find the bus to Ballyshannon for the Rory Gallager Festival. We wait at the appointed stop with another young couple and soon conclude the bus is running on Irish time and has already gone! A taxi with our new friends soon takes us into Ballyshannon and the driver points out all the local points of interest, good restaurants, taxi stands and an outside washing machine and dryer laundromat!

The town is buzzing and humming with music, people sightseeing, catching up with friends from last year and lots of Guinness. We start in Owen Roe’s bar where we meet up with our friends Paul and Nina. They are regular visitors to the festival and take us on a guided tour of the best bars in Balyshannon walking through the town, pausing for Dave to be photographed with Rory’s statue and ending up at Dicey Reilly’s bar. All the way there is music in every pub, street corner or just set up on the street. Time to eat and have a sit down before going in to the big top so we head back to the taxi drivers top tip, The Limit. For a place so highly recommended it’s nearly deserted but by the time we’ve ordered a drink it’s full! The specials of stuffed chicken and chicken curry are very good.

It’s time for the main event, music in the big top, The Scratch, Laundromat and Pat McManus. All excellent bands playing under a red and blue striped big top which strangely reminds me of Billy Smart’s Circus! The last band Wishbone Ash are starting at 12 midnight I’m flagging by then so as Pat McManus sings Last bus to Bundoran we head back to join the queue for the bus and sleepily arrive back at our apartment.

North to South

After so much fish last night, breakfast is a light affair today before we set off to drive to Port Salon. The weather has changed, no longer hot and sunny but low-lying mist make everything seem a bit mysterious. The tall hedges at times hide the glorious green countryside, who knew there could be so many different shades of green. We are eagerly awaiting “the border” but the only thing that marks its passing is that the road signs are suddenly in Irish as well as English. We’re now travelling along The Wild Atlantic Way which hugs the west coast of Ireland, the stunning scenery takes your breath away as vistas of rocky coastline, sandy beaches, white cottages and green countryside sweep past us in great waves. Just as we think we’ve seen the best view another sweeps round the corner, along with little villages such as Ramelton with its lovely small harbour, fishing and pleasure boats swinging at anchor and a race horse galloping along the golden sands of the beach.

Miraculously, we find Patrick and Marie’s gorgeous cottage at our first attempt all due to their excellent directions. It is so good to meet up with our friends in their beautiful home here in Port Salon. So much to chat about over Marie’s lovely lunch. The afternoon has been organised by Patrick to take in all the main sights of the area, first stop Fanad lighthouse. The drive there takes us over the rocky remote centre of the Fanad peninsular before we see the lighthouse perched at the tip of the peninsular. The tour is very informative, but I must admit I’m dreading the climb up to the light room especially as the last section is a 19-step steep ladder with a rope for a hand rail on one side! Amazingly I get up to the top and the 360-degree views are worth it. But now we must go back down, initially backwards, then sideways with back pressed into the wall! Our next, must-see is the little beach below their house and it is gorgeous a sweeping arc of golden sand fringed at both ends by rocks and there’s only one family on the beach.   

Our last stop is the home of our friends Liz and Tony. It to has a stunning location overlooking Port Salon village, golf course and beach. Then its on to drinks at the golf club, a meal at Julie’s and after dinner drinks in the bar, all with stunning views of the beach and harbour. Even at 10 o’clock the children are still out playing in the water, jumping off the harbour into the water, what an idyllic place to grow up.

Our mission if we choose to accept it…..

Carrick-a-Rede

Today we’re on a tight schedule so we need to get away quickly so by 9am we’re heading out the hotel and driving to our first destination Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. We’ve been advised to arrive early to avoid the crowds and queues, a few others have the same idea and together we all march smartly along the clifftop eagerly anticipating our first glimpse of the bridge. I’m feeling quite nervous as I don’t like heights, but I am determined to get across the bridge. Around the last corner and there it is, swaying in the breeze… I take a deep breath and set off across the bridge, you didn’t turn around for a picture says Dave, my hands and feet were too busily engaged going forward and trying not to look at the sea underneath! The panoramic views are worth the effort, there’s only the trip back now to negotiate. That’s the first part of our mission accomplished.

It’s now a short drive to our next destination, The Giant’s Causeway and we arrive there with 10 minutes to spare from the end of our timed entry ticket. However, there is an enormous group of people in front of us causing chaos, thankfully the reception lady takes pity on us and ushers us through. The visitor centre is full of every nationality of tourist imaginable and Dave is not coping well getting very grumpy with all these bodies. It wasn’t like this last time he grumbles, well things have changed since 1979! As we exit the centre and start walking towards the Causeway we’re kept entertained by the audio guide and as the crowds thin out we both begin to enjoy the scenery. I find it amazing that those rocks are naturally formed, and it is all highlighted by blue skies glittering with silver, blue skies and lush green grass. We clamber over the causeway rocks taking pictures with the rest of the tourists before setting off up the track to the clifftop and is it steep or what. By the time we reach the top oxygen would have been nice and a new set of legs, we both lean on the fence gasping, pretending to admire the view. There are very few people around now and by the time we’ve strolled along the cliff to “The Amphitheatre” we’re on our own with just the sound of the seabirds screeching around us. The walk back to the centre and the car is pleasant but the crowds are no better.

Giants Causeway

We’re now nearly halfway through our challenges, refreshment is needed and the aptly named Red Door Café provides a welcome rest with a picnic table in their lovely garden and equally welcome seafood chowder and Brie panini. Suitably refreshed we drive down to Ballintoy Harbour stroll out to the rocks and learn about the limestone quarried nearby and then shipped to Liverpool for paving.

Dark Hedges

The afternoon is to be devoted to finding more recent sites of interest. So, our third challenge is to find “Dark Hedges” which features in a scene from Game of Thrones. It’s a bit like an orienteering challenge driving with other cars across the countryside until we all end up in a hotel car park. This really doesn’t look right but after following further signs we come to the road and it is impressive. Approximately 70 surviving beech trees planted along the sides of a road to give an impressive entrance into Gracehill House. The shapes of the trees with the sunlight streaming through the gaps makes for a very eerie scene, I can almost see the grey lady who is supposed to haunt the road. 

Bushmills Distillery

Our fourth challenge is to go to Bushmills Distillery, this is easily achieved but as 4 coaches have just turned up and are streaming through the doors I refuse to go inside and take a tour. A picture of the outside will have to do.

Our fifth and final challenge is to find Dunluce Castle which is perched on the edge of the cliff on the way back to Port Rush. It is again eerily atmospheric even in the bright sunshine. The ruins look broodingly back at us.

Dunluce Castle

Missions accomplished it’s back to the hotel for a well-deserved rest, I can’t believe it when not only is the lift out of action and we have use the stairs but our room card doesn’t work and when we get back to reception we have to change rooms… the challenges just keep on coming today! Thank goodness our evening meal proves to be an easy choice, the hotel restaurant proves to be an excellent choice, fish platter of smoked salmon, prawns, cod bites and calamari followed by seabass on seasonal vegetables, phew we need a lay down after all that exercise and food.

England, Scotland & Ireland in a day

Amazing, it’s another gloriously sunny day for our drive to Cairnryan and ferry over to Ireland. We say goodbye to Jane and Anne and are heading north on the M6 by 9.30am. The traffic is light but the scenery keeps us distracted from the long journey ahead, the countryside becoming increasingly wild and remote as we pass the northern Lakes, then the North Yorkshire Moors and finally into Scotland at Gretna Green. It’s then a long drive through Dumfries and Galloway but the views just keep getting better. There’s a brilliant blue cloudless sky, rolling green hills in a patchwork of greens sprinkled with the darker jewels of trees and sparkling sapphire blue lochs, it is truly breath-taking.

Our pitstop before going to the ferry is Castle Kennedy Gardens as its only a few miles from the ferry port. It has a long drive up to the castle that opens out into a stunning vista across the White Loch to Lochinch Castle which is a beautiful baronial and French style castle home to the 14^th Earl of Stair. Castle Kennedy is the former home to the Earls of Stair until it burnt down and the 75 acres of garden where created. And what gardens they are, stunning rhododendrons and azaleas at this time of year mixed in with a carpet of bluebells and the occasional ceanothus. There are grand walkways of beech, thuga and monkey puzzle trees, a 2-acre lily pond surrounded by rhododendrons and a very beautiful walled garden. You might have guessed that I really enjoyed this amazing garden and was reluctant to leave.

The short drive to the ferry port soon has us checking in for the ferry to Larne. The car is thoroughly examined, mirrors underneath, bag searches, explosive detectors and body searches for us. You don’t get that thoroughly checked when you drive to France, Dave grumbles, maybe they’re just practising ready for Brexit! The bonus is that we’re only 6^th in line so hopefully quickly off when we reach Ireland. The ferry trip is made all the more enjoyable as we secure comfortable seats right at the front of the ship and eagerly await the first sight of Ireland.

Ireland appears after only a short period like an emerald jewel in the sunlight, maybe this is why its nicknamed the emerald isle. As hoped we are among the first cars off the ferry and within minutes we’re onto the coastal causeway driving north towards Portrush. On our right is the silvery blue glittering Irish Sea, on our left are basalt cliffs topped with green grass and above us a cloudless blue sky. Every now and then we pass white or stone cottages scattered along the coast like discarded stones. It is a beautiful coastline and a brief glimpse of the beautiful countryside that awaits us tomorrow. At the end of the drive we find the Portrush Atlantic Hotel after a detour through the one-way system which has the sat nav in a flat spin, threatening to punch us with the insistent demands for a U-turn! The rest of the town seems to be a strange combination of upmarket development and kiss me quick culture. The restaurants all seem to stop serving by 9pm, shame we want a snack after that time, thank goodness for a bottle of red wine and cheese and biscuits in the room!

Lakes & Whisky

Another hot sunny day is waiting for us to go exploring but only once we’ve indulged in another wonderful breakfast then its off driving north towards Bassenthwaite Lake and as we later learn is the only true “lake” the rest being “waters” or “meres. The drive takes us through some of the most stunning countryside easily comparable to our trips to America and Australia. We pass through tree tunnels, sending shafts of dappled sunlight down onto the road, glittering stretches of water, picture postcard housed built in Lakeland stone and painted white and all underneath cloudless blue skies. After many “wows” we fall silent just drinking in the stunning scenery, not able to open our eyes wide enough to see it all.

We pull in to the Lakes Distillery and are immediately struck with how well manicured everything is. Neatly labelled bushes and herbs, mint, juniper, blackthorn and immaculately tidy walkway down to the converted old cowsheds which now house the distillery. We join the tour which is just starting and are taken through to the presentation room to see a wonderful birds eye view of the course of the river Derwent before going into the still rooms with its two large copper stills, Susan and Rachael and the smaller gin/vodka still, Chemmy (named after the Olympic skier). And finally we come to the all important tasting, now as the distillery was only converted 4 years ago there aren’t yet any single malts their blended whisky called One is just to Dave and my taste. We’re not quite so keen on neat ice-cold gin and vodka, it definitely needs a dash of tonic!

Lunch in the courtyard under big parasols is lovely and relaxing, croque monsieur and a beetroot & goats cheese salad mmm… After this we must walk down to see the river Derwent, passing the time of day with the alpacas on the way before driving back to Hawkshead to look around the village enjoying the lovely stone houses and the 12^th century church before finally driving back to Hillcrest.

After a relaxing couple of hours in the sunny Hillcrest garden we set off for an evening meal at Rusland Pool, unfortunately the Bank Holiday crowds and an unhelpful barmaid ended that plan so with a quick phone call a table is booked at the 14^th century coaching in turned pub, The Farmers Arms. The doorways are so low that even I need to duck! As we go in a notice instructs us not to use the cigarette disposal box as Blue Tits are in residence! The pub is delightful, obviously authentically old and serving good honest pub grub. Home to bed and tomorrow on to Ireland.

Coniston Water

Well day two in the Lakes and its full sun and over 20⁰C already in fact we’ve slept so well we nearly miss breakfast and as Jane’s breakfasts are amazing that would be criminal. So we enjoy a late breakfast in the conservatory watching the birds especially the coal tits flitting in and out of their brick wall nest. I have suggested a walk around Tarn Hows today. The drive there is beautiful, however it soon becomes clear that everyone else has had the same idea and we are soon trapped in the automotive train up to the carpark only to be turned away. Grumpily, we settle on a walk from Little Arrow to Coniston Water up towards Coniston and back along the road to the car. Halfway, a refreshment stop in The Ship sat on a cool bench overlooking Coniston Water and the valley is very welcome as it is now 28⁰C. Apart from misjudging where we’d left the car the walk was perfect, hardly a sole in sight except down by the water where dogs and sheep paddled joined by children and their parents.

A late afternoon siesta on the patio was in order, shame it was ruined by brief heavy thundery type showers which cleared as soon as they started. An evening stroll down to the Whitewater Hotel’s Dolly Blue Bar for drinks and a meal is very pleasant. We sit outside by the river where we’re fascinated by the jumping fish in the river and the next table which seems to be made up of Good Morning Britain backroom staff and camera crew, can’t wait till tomorrow morning now…

Cartmel Racing

The day starts with the sound of a steam train chugging down the valley on the Lakeside railway and is soon followed by a wonderful cooked breakfast in the conservatory overlooking the trees and valley. After dusting off our glad rags its off to Cartmel and racing.

The Cartmel track is in a stunning setting of a natural bowl surrounded by rolling hills sprinkled with trees and off to one side, the gorgeous village of Cartmel with its old church, quaint winding streets and post office selling sticky toffee pudding. Pete and Angela have set up camp out the back of their land rover providing us with a never-ending supply of beer, wine and food all on the running in rail, so we can see close up the final stages of each race. And talking of racing we start out well with winners in the first two races but things then deteriorate with some horses nearly winning but not quite.

The day ends with another BBQ at Pete and Angela’s apartment with John, Steff, Frankie, Becci and Martin. Good banter and entertainment provided by the  dogs Trevor and Megan.

Wet Drive to the Lakes

We’re setting off today to start our holiday to The Lakes and Ireland. After all the wonderful hot, sunny weather today is definitely a turn for the worse, torrentially wet but as Dave says “good for our grass”. The motorways are full of heavy lorries throwing up lots of spray that limits the visibility and roadworks that slow us down. We reach Backbarrow just after 1pm and head to The Whitewater Hotel bar, The Dolly Blue Bar for lunch. As its Friday it has to be fish and chips and absolutely scrummy it is too especially looking out over the river and surrounding countryside.

We’re too early to check in to our guest house so we drive to the shores of Coniston Water and sit on a bench by the water drinking in the restorative peace and quiet, accompanied only by two ducks who are looking at us expectantly for some food. The time soon passes and its time to check in at Hillcrest Country Guest House. The setting is gorgeous, tree filled vistas out of all the windows, fresh coffee provided by the very welcoming Jane and lots of birds flitting about the garden. We’re fascinated by the coal tit that has managed to nest in a crack between the downpipe and a brick!

Tonight, we’ve been invited to a BBQ at Pete and Angela’s apartment on the shores of Lake Windemere with views, a beautiful traditional stone mansion, G&T’s on the terrace and good friends, I can’t imagine anything nicer except possibly warm weather and a stunning sunset! Sorry Pete and Angela! But the burgers and sausages were BBQ’d to perfection, the wine flowed freely and the conversation relaxing. Perfect.